Hue is a land where culinary traditions are as rich as its royal history. Among its many delicacies, Banh Sam and Banh Dua stand out as rare, handcrafted treats—made today by only one man: Nguyen Xuan Lang, a 90-year-old artisan from An Thanh Village, Quang Dien District.
Mr. Lang has devoted more than 70 years to traditional cake-making. Though he crafts over ten types of Hue cakes, Banh Sam and Banh Dua are his exclusive specialties—no one else in the area knows how to make them. His dedication keeps these once-royal recipes alive.
Royal Origins and Rare Craftsmanship
Banh Sam, believed to have originated from the imperial court, is made from mung bean flour slowly cooked with sugar, then skillfully shaped into ginseng root forms—a process requiring incredible patience and dexterity, as no molds are used.
Unlike Banh Sam, Banh Dua includes a flavorful filling of pork fat, bananas, sesame seeds, peanuts, and sugar. Its glutinous rice shell is delicate, and shaping it without cracks demands an even higher level of mastery. The final decorations require tiny tools like bamboo knives and feather brushes.
Both cakes are slowly dried over charcoal on bamboo trays, where temperature control is critical—a moment’s inattention can ruin hours of work.
“Many people have borrowed my tools to try making them, but none have succeeded,” Mr. Lang says. Even his children haven’t yet mastered the techniques.
Tet Delicacies and Cultural Legacy
As Tet approaches, demand for his cakes soars. Starting from the lunar calendar’s early December, Mr. Lang crafts over 100 Banh Sam per day, working to fulfill advance orders from museums, garden houses, and local families.
Each cake is not just a treat, but a symbol of tradition. Their vibrant colors and intricate shapes make them popular for weddings, ancestral offerings, and Tet displays. In difficult times, this craft supported his 12-member family, though few today follow in his footsteps due to its demanding nature and low profits.
“In the past, I used to make trays of cakes for weddings as a mark of family pride,” he recalls.
Despite modern changes, the cakes Mr. Lang makes are more than food—they are stories, memories, and living testaments to Hue’s royal culinary heritage. On ancestral altars, they speak not only of taste, but of tradition, craftsmanship, and enduring pride.